Flash Off-Road

About the Cepek Shocks

How They Are Manufactured
© Copyright 2004 Chuck Kopelson 05/03/2003
Updated July 30, 2012



The stock shock wastes 1" of travel extended and 1" travel in compression for end stops. It does this by severely restricting the valving on the last 1" of travel on either end.

There are no internal hydraulic stops built into the Cepek shock, and so, you get an effective travel that is approximately 2.5" more than stock which equates to about an additional 6" of controlled wheel travel more than factory. The extended length of the shock is the same as stock to avoid any hyperextension of the CV joints. The compressed length is the same as stock except that there is a hat on the top that contains a compressible bumper which allows the shock to compress about another .5 inch from the point where it first touches the bumper. This bumper damps the final one inch of travel. The heavier construction of the Cepek shock; especially the head is designed to stop the shock on extension without the need for a compression stop.

Another thing I noticed when comparing this shock to a new factory shock is that turning or rotating the rod in the Cepek shock it is extremely smooth and easy where the factory shock is rough and tight.

Each Cepek shock weighs 11 pounds which is about 4 pounds heavier than stock.

Shock Top

There is a hat built on top of the rod, just below the eye ring, which has a urethane type bump stop inside the hat, which allows the shock to compress about 1" further than stock, but with the bump stop, it creates a smooth transition for that final 1".

Bump Stop

The top of the shock body has a special striker head that is extremely heavy duty to accommodate the crushing of the bump stop, and is used as stop for the extension mode.

Rod Seal

The shock has as special rod seal that is also a rod scraper that strips junk off the rod that accumulates during normal use and keeps dirt from getting down into the seal which causes leaks. Notice that the seal at the rod sticks up about 1/8" above the other part of the seal, and that is used to scrape junk off the rod before it can be pulled into the multiple lip oil seal.

The rod size on this shock is 22mm


Top Ring


This is the heavy duty rubber mounted eye ring.


Adjuster Dial

This is the manual adjusting dial. Paint the pointer white so it will be easy to see when it's installed. There are nine positions, full counter clockwise, (left) is the softest setting. In the full left position, with the biggest line on the knob pointing straight up, you are in the #1 position. Full right is the #9 position, or the stiffest setting.

Sometimes you can get the knob to go past the #9 position, but rarely.

Sometimes it takes a stroke or two to get the oil into the piston, since the shocks were simply put together but not used, so occasionally on the first stroke or two they may seem to have a small soft spot but that will go away with first use.

When manually setting up the shocks, turning the knob counter clockwise is a lot easier than clockwise It is always advisable to initially set them to a position that is heavier than what you expect to use.

For starters I would set them to 6 in the front, and 4 in the rear. Then, if that's a little stiff, you can take a screw driver, put it between the coils and move the knob one detent counter clockwise.

You'll be surprised at the way the truck handles with these shocks. You can take the on and off ramps at a much faster speed since the body roll will be reduced substantially and the rear end wash out should all but disappear. Set the shocks on 9 and you can turn on a dime.

If you have a particularly heavy truck, then the setting above may not be too heavy, but typically you will end up with 1 or 2 less detents front and rear.

Average setting for a wagon for a lot of street use would be 4 front and 3 rear.