I decided to mount my aux lights on Visionx Billet Tube Clamps (Pair) Fits 2.25" tubing. XIL-C225 because these billet clamps were strong and wouldn't harm my fork tubes in any way because the clamps have 2 rubber liners.
The fork tube on my 2014 VRSCDX is 2-1/8" so the 2-1/4" billet clamps are too big. What I did was line one side of the clamp with some sheet rubber I had laying around. When you cut it you can't go all the way around the 'C' because at the edges it's too thick to go around the fork tube.
Here's the rubber shim positioned correctly. See how it doesn't go all the way to the edge. You only need to put the shim on one side of the billet clamp. I actually choose to put it on the clamp side with the bracket.
This is the clamp with no shim. The sides easily come together and don't grip around the fork tube.
Luckily, I have a nice assortment of SS hardware.
I ran into 2 problems when I tried to attach the LED lamp. The hole in the billet tube clamp bracket has a larger diameter than the stainless screws that mount the small lights to the clamp. The clamp mounting screws were too short (see the small screw in the upper right) to make it through the thick billet clamp bracket. These brackets are heavy duty enough to mount much larger lights.
I got lucky and had some nylon spacers and longer screws. While the spacer fit through the hole in the billet bracket the smaller center hole was too small. The longer screws I had were too long and needed to be cut off.
I drilled out the center of the spacer.
I checked the hole to make sure it was big enough.
I put the long screw through the spacer and the billet bracket. I positioned the hack saw against the bracket and carefully scored a ring around the spacer.
I put the spacer in the vise and cut it off. I then filed the ends smooth.
I checked the spacers length by dropping it in the billet bracket hole and running a square piece of scrap wood over the top. When the wood didn't run into the spacer I had the right length. I used a file to fine tune the length.
Here's how the light bracket, spacer, screw, washer and nut go together. The original small screw is off to the right.
Now it's time to cut the screw to the proper length. First I snugged up the assembly.
I put the billet bracket in the vise between some copper jaw liners to keep from scratching it. I cut the screw off with my hacksaw leaving 2 or 3 of the end threads. You always run a nut down a screw before you cut it off because backing the nut off the screw reforms the threads on the end that got messed up with the saw.
This shows the threads I left at the end of the screw.
Time to mount the clamps on the fork tubes of my 2014 Harley VRSCDX. I used blue threadlocker on the screws. Bikes vibrate and you don't want anything falling off.
I used a carpenters square to align the billet brackets so they are square to the lower fork bracket. If I want I could easily mount the billet brackets below the lower fork bracket. I didn't do it for now because I didn't want to remove the 2 side reflectors on the side of the fork tubes. These brackets are also heavy duty enough to mount much larger lights.
I tightened the clamp screws alternating from left to right till the brackt ends were drawn in flush.
The bracket clamped in place.
I lightly screwed the lights onto the brackets to see what they looked like.
I have to get to the battery terminals so the airbox cover has to come off. On the Vrod the gas tank is below the seat. You can see the filler cap. The orange object that looks like a standard motorcycle tank is just a sheet metal cover for the air cleaner box.
Twist the bail head fastener` 1/4 turn counterclockwise to release it.
Pull the cover back so the front pins come out of the rubber gromets.
This is the rubber grommet. You can see the battery below.
This is the airbox with the top clips popped down. The coolant expansion tank is behind it.
Pop the 6 top clips and the 7th front airbox clip which is located under the air inlet tube in the front. I used a long nose pliers to lower the clips.
Push down on the mass airflow connector and pull it out.
Lift the cover up and pull it back to remove.
The airbox cover showing the front airbox clip and the inlet tube. The top of the battery is now exposed.
The grommet on the left is missing. If I don't find it the airbox cover will rattle when I ride.
I bolted the lights onto the brackets. With the bike sitting up straight I used a level to get the lights pointing a little bit down. Once I get out in the dark I'll aim them.
I need a power source that's only on when the ignition is on to power the on/off circuit for the aux lights The fuse panel under the seat should have an ign hot.
Removing the rear seat. Undo the nut with a 10mm wrench. Remove the seat catch bolt on the other side with a 13mm.
Remove the seat lanyard. Pull the rubber stopper back and get the cross hook to turn vertical. It will pull out of the hole.
Slide the seat under the hold strap and lift it out.
The rear relay and fuses. The top left and the top center are spares.
The best place to get power that is switched by the ignition is an aux fuse in the box under the seat. The problem is that there is no terminal pin in the plastic fuse block. I have to get one at the dealer. The HD part number is 72434-00. It is called a JR. Power-Timer 16-14 ga. It may also be a Delphi 12185269.
Removing the right side cover with a 5mm hex key so I can remove the main battery fuse and access space to run wires.
This is the 40 amp main bike fuse. There's also space to run wires to the new aux lights.
It's good practice to remove the 40 amp main fuse whenever working on the bike.
I removed the left side cover to check it out. It's already packed. Doesn't seem to be any room for more wires.
I'm attaching the new harness so it gets its power directly from the battery.
Using a 10mm wrench to loosen the battery screw. If you're doing the positive side make sure you don't touch the wrench to ground or you'll short the battery and get a spark.
Under the seat is a factory supplied accessory connector with both sides. If you want to use it all you have to do is attach your feed wire to the supplied female connector. As luck would have it this connector was hot all the time. Even when the ignition was off. I had to find a hot that only comes on when the ignition is on.
In the mean time I ran the wires to the lights out the right side cover and tucked the extra wire and relay up near the battery.
I picked up this grommet at home depot to replace the one I lost on the airbox cover. It's not nearly as big but it does fit in a pinch.
I haven't decided where I can mount the on /off switch so I ran it up so it was near the other lighs and wire tied it to the handle bar.
I got lucky and found the missing grommet laying in the airbox. Since they come out so easy I decided to glue them in. Right under the grommet is the inline fuse for the new lights. I put in a 10 amp fuse.
The rear under seat fuse block. I need a hot when the ignition switch for the bike is on because I don't want the aux lights to stay on if the bike is off. The top center unused fuse has a red with a black stripe wire going to it from the ignition switch. If I had a fuse terminal pin HD part number 72434-00 all I have to do is insert it into the other side of this fuse and attach it to the yellow wire going to my aux light relay. These pins are not a stock item and not easy to get.
I went to plan B. I decided to use the spare fuse on the top left which already had terminal pins with attached wires. I cut and stripped the black wire and removed the insulation around a section of the red/ blk ign wire with an Xacto knife.
I tied one of the black wires around the red/ bk wire and soldered it. This gave me a fuse block with an ignition source I could use without having to buy new terminal pins. I crimped a bullet connector to the second black wire coming out of the fuse block and the yellow wire going to my aux light relay.
I painted the soldered connection with liquid electrical tape and put the bullet connector together with shrink tubing.
This is the front of the fuse block. I put a 3 amp fuse in the top left position. There's a 15 amp fuse in the top middle as a spare.
I attached the fuse block to the mounting base by sliding it forward. I cable tied lose wires.
The lights work! I'll have to adjust the aiming when it gets dark.
