abs and tt4 lights are on

Hummer H1 and Military Humvee topics
94redklzese
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue 12 Feb , 2008 12:17 pm

abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by 94redklzese » Wed 11 Jun , 2008 1:39 pm

the abs comes on as soon as I start the truck and once I drive for about 30 feet it turns off. The abs and tt4 come on tougether once I go over 90km or after braking hard. the tt4 light is never on by itself, it only lights up once the abs is lit up. Sometimes the trucks abs kicked in when I was coming to a stop and was on the brakes very gently, but this was before the abs and tt4 lights were even on I dont know what it could be I hooked up the computer to check the codes and nothing popped up. Please help the truck is a 99 wagon 6.5 turbo diesel 70,000 miles.
1994 ford probe klze
99 TD wagon
2006 gsxr 600

User avatar
chuck
Site Admin
Posts: 1386
Joined: Mon 15 Jan , 2007 9:50 pm
hummer_info: 1998 H1
Location: Denver
Contact:

Post by chuck » Wed 11 Jun , 2008 4:06 pm

The first thing to check on all abs problems is the sensor and tone ring at each wheel. The tone ring looks like a fine toothed gear that is pressed onto the halfshaft. There is a magnetic pickup that has to be close to the wheel which picks up pulses that tell the abs and tt4 how fast each wheel is turning. I've had split tone rings and sensors that have been knocked away from the tone ring.
15 Years ownership
98 TD Wagon
95 Gas Wagon
96 TD Wagon
A GT Cepek Dealer
Visit the Store

fireball
Posts: 48
Joined: Wed 07 Mar , 2007 1:09 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta

Post by fireball » Sat 14 Jun , 2008 8:02 am

Your tone ring sensor has backed away from the tone ring. It's not unusual.

Slide a regular business card between the tone ring and the sensor (to use as a spacer) then gently tap the back of the sensor with a small mallet or hammer to move the sensor 'into' the business card. Done.

The light turns itself off.
2001 H1 - Always Muddy
2004 SRT-10 - Always needs rear tires
2006 GSXR-1000 - Always Wheelying
NASCAR Stock Car - Always dented

poco1971
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed 12 Nov , 2008 10:11 am

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by poco1971 » Fri 14 Nov , 2008 2:51 pm

I found your website after having this same problem. ABS and TT4 lights were both on. I had no clue what I was looking for but it was pretty simple. I had some mud between the ring and sensor. I cleaned them all up and adjusted as you guys had said. Lights are both off now.

Thanks for the help.

Dean
2003 H1 WAGON
2003 GSXR-600
2003 2500 HEMI QUAD CAB

User avatar
cdwarn
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue 06 Mar , 2007 9:20 pm
Location: Simi Valley, CA

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by cdwarn » Sat 15 Nov , 2008 8:29 pm

I just had this happen this week on my Alpha. I took it in to the dealer in Thousand Oaks and they determined that I had, and I quote from the work order, "Axle bolt broken making abs light to come on, code 2-12. R&R axle and drill out bolt, adjust speed sensor." :) Works fine now. The tech told me something about the tt4 being somehow associated with the same thing?
2006 H 1 Alpha
Desert Tan w/black interior
Adventure Package

User avatar
h1sp
Posts: 2037
Joined: Fri 09 Feb , 2007 1:39 pm
Location: TEXAS

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by h1sp » Sun 16 Nov , 2008 10:40 am

Hello cdwarn
did you see this broken bolt?
2000 HMC4
"Candy Apple RED"
Stock with Run Flats
1 of 57

User avatar
cdwarn
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue 06 Mar , 2007 9:20 pm
Location: Simi Valley, CA

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by cdwarn » Fri 21 Nov , 2008 9:13 pm

Nope, I was in a hurry and the tech was already gone when I got by to pick it up. Good question though. Anyway, based on these posts I know what to look for from now on. Thanks all.
2006 H 1 Alpha
Desert Tan w/black interior
Adventure Package

skirescue
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon 01 Dec , 2008 9:56 am
hummer_info: 2006 H1 Alpha
Location: Culver City, CA

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by skirescue » Tue 06 Jan , 2009 1:00 pm

Have the same problem on my Alpha that started last night. Abs light comes on (faintly) and goes off after about 50 feet. I will check the tone ring tonight. I'm pretty new to this forum and you guys are great...lots of help.

OBTW: I finally gave up on the thousand Oaks Hummer Dealership (where I purchased my Alpha). They can never seem to fix normal squawks (horn intermittent, lights on radio flashing) Not to mention they had my H1 for 60 days for a corrosion issue. They ruptured the seals when they lubed it last time. They have never been able to get the wheels balanced even after changing tires and getting rid of the run-flats and they can't seem to get the alignment correct after two trys.
Well (just to finish this rant) I ened up at Tustin Hummer. They not only took care of the recall on the fuel tank, but also took care of the other two recalls that weren't mailed out yet. They had the vehicle two days and fixed the horn, lights, alignment and balanced the wheels to a gnats donkey. I can't believe how smooth the ride is. And they fixed a few other items that I had not mentioned to them which I was going to get to eventually. Check out their website: www.tustinhummer.com.

33K miles and almost a daily driver.........
2006 Alpha Soft Top/Blue Hummer Bikini top/Modified Rod Hall Springs & Extended Remote Reservoir Nitrogen Shocks/
37 X 13.50 Open Country TOYOs/Light Bar w/6 Baja Design HIDs/A M General Tailgate / Odyssey batteries/ARB Fridge on custom floor mount

fireball
Posts: 48
Joined: Wed 07 Mar , 2007 1:09 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by fireball » Tue 06 Jan , 2009 1:16 pm

poco1971 wrote:I found your website after having this same problem. ABS and TT4 lights were both on. I had no clue what I was looking for but it was pretty simple. I had some mud between the ring and sensor. I cleaned them all up and adjusted as you guys had said. Lights are both off now.

Thanks for the help.

Dean
Hey Dean,
Mud between the tone ring and the sensor will not stop the ABS or TT4 from functioning. The pulse generated from the tone ring goes 'through' the mud just fine. Only if the sensor is backed away from the ring will the ABS light illuminate. In your case the sensor to ring distance must have been very close to the maximum functioning distance.

Greg
2001 H1 - Always Muddy
2004 SRT-10 - Always needs rear tires
2006 GSXR-1000 - Always Wheelying
NASCAR Stock Car - Always dented

User avatar
chuck
Site Admin
Posts: 1386
Joined: Mon 15 Jan , 2007 9:50 pm
hummer_info: 1998 H1
Location: Denver
Contact:

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by chuck » Wed 07 Jan , 2009 11:54 am

Skirescue,
I'd like to update my alpha article. It would be nice if you could either post or send me a writeup on your experiences with the truck including service, recalls etc.

Thanks,
15 Years ownership
98 TD Wagon
95 Gas Wagon
96 TD Wagon
A GT Cepek Dealer
Visit the Store

skirescue
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon 01 Dec , 2008 9:56 am
hummer_info: 2006 H1 Alpha
Location: Culver City, CA

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by skirescue » Wed 07 Jan , 2009 6:56 pm

Chuck I will work on getting that info to you along with some pics.

LT
2006 Alpha Soft Top/Blue Hummer Bikini top/Modified Rod Hall Springs & Extended Remote Reservoir Nitrogen Shocks/
37 X 13.50 Open Country TOYOs/Light Bar w/6 Baja Design HIDs/A M General Tailgate / Odyssey batteries/ARB Fridge on custom floor mount

drew
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri 10 Oct , 2008 11:34 pm

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by drew » Tue 07 Jul , 2009 9:47 pm

Any hints on pulling the codes from the TT4 for a 2003?

My OBDII software doesn't see any problem, but the ABS + TT4 lights on .

The pick-ups and tone rings look OK and the vehicle is a street car only.

DRew

skirescue
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon 01 Dec , 2008 9:56 am
hummer_info: 2006 H1 Alpha
Location: Culver City, CA

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by skirescue » Wed 08 Jul , 2009 10:12 am

Drew,

Here is the procedure for the Alpha. I am not sure if it is same for your 2003:
Access the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) of the vehicle. A jumper will allow you to short pin 4 to pin 15 of the DLC.

1. Switch on the ignition, the ABS warning light will illuminate and extinguish if there are no active faults.
2. Five seconds after connecting the switch jumper, the ABS warning light will extinguish, indicating the start of the blink code cycle.
3. The start phase consists of the ABS warning light flashing in the following sequence (Figure 7-47):
· Pause = 2.5 seconds (long)
· Flash = 2.5 seconds (long)
· Pause = 2.5 seconds (long)
· Flash = 0.5 seconds (short)
4. The first part of the code number (Figure 7-48:): A pause of 2.5 seconds precedes a series of short flashes. Count the flashes until the next long pause occurs. The number of short flashes obtained is the first part of the code number.
5. The second part of the code number: A pause of 2.5 seconds occurs between the first and second parts, before a series of short flashes occurs. The number of short flashes forms the second part of the code number.
6. The sequence of the start phase, first and second parts will continue until the switch jumper is deactivated.
NOTE: If you are unsure of the code, do not deactivate the switch jumper from the DLC because the code for that fault will be cleared from the memory.
7. It is possible to have more than one fault with the system at a time. However, the first indicated fault must be repaired then cleared by reconnecting the jumper and awaiting the next start phase before the next fault code can be extracted.
8. Repeat the procedure until no further faults are stored in the memory. The memory is cleared when a long pause of 7.5 seconds occurs after the start phase.
Clearing Fault Codes
At the end of a fault code cycle, deactivate the blink code jumper. The fault code will cycle one more time before the lamp remains on solid. Turn off the ignition and the fault code will be cleared from memory.

Hope that helps.

Larry
2006 Alpha Soft Top/Blue Hummer Bikini top/Modified Rod Hall Springs & Extended Remote Reservoir Nitrogen Shocks/
37 X 13.50 Open Country TOYOs/Light Bar w/6 Baja Design HIDs/A M General Tailgate / Odyssey batteries/ARB Fridge on custom floor mount

drew
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri 10 Oct , 2008 11:34 pm

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by drew » Sat 11 Jul , 2009 8:09 pm

Yes, thank you that worked great.

I have the dread 2-6 error: Shuttle Valve Failure. Oh joy!

This failure requires one of the following (updates for the KB*):
1. Complete ABS modulator unit part number SRB101203, ~$1800. Fits Land Rover Discovery II years 1999-2004. Made by WABCO in Germany.
2. Official shuttle valve repair kit for the 2-6 error, p/n: SWO500040, $875. The kit includes the shuttle valve switches and the solenoid pack.
3. Shutttle valve "small repair" kit: p/n : SWO500030 ~$70. Not recommended by Land Rover anymore.

I just picked up a new SWO500040 for $100 off of ebay. I'll report on the results.

There has to be a way to retrofit a modern Nissin unit into the H1 instead of this troublesome unit. The Land Rover guys complain a lot about this unit.

Drew
*I've emailed a few Tech updates to Chuck, but I'm getting no response and do not see the information posted. Chuck, you still there?

drew
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri 10 Oct , 2008 11:34 pm

Re: abs and tt4 lights are on

Post by drew » Sat 01 Aug , 2009 5:15 pm

UPDATE:

I installed the Land Rover p/n:SWO500040 and it solved the 2-6 error. The SWO500040 is an integrated PCB and solenoid pack.

Removing the ABS modulator was not easy and to extended Chucks How To:
1. I highly recommend the use of flare nut crows feet. Spray the flare nuts with PB Blaster the day before removal.
2. The left splash shield must be removed in addition to the "three bolts": the hood latch and the harness loop in front (which requires a long extension and a 7/16" deep socket)
3. Remove the stainless hoses from the master to the ABS. One hose can be positioned to drain back into the master. The other can be propped up as not to drain out.
4. The entire ABS modulator bracket must be removed. The hardest part of this is getting a 7/16" open wrench around the harness loop fastener. It's gotta be done from the inside of the engine compartment which requires quite the body contortion to hold the wrench in place.
5. To facilitate the removal of the modulator + bracket I dismounted and push aside the power steering pump and the CTIS pump.

Original Link. The SWO500040 is the part that the main harness plugs into.
http://www.flashoffroad.com/Maintenance ... S/abs.html

Once you get the modulator out of the car, it takes less than 30 minutes to take apart the modulator and install the new parts.

I also ran 2.5L of brake fluid through the system with a pressure power bleeder (motive products) and the air bubbles from the modulator just trickled out slowly.

Drew
/FYI: SWO500040. Looks like Land Rover mixed Oh's and Zeros a big NO NO with part numbers and the like. There is a single "Oh" after the W, the rest are zeros. (BTW: You *never* use Oh's and I's with numbering systems, as they can be confused with One's and Zero's.)
Last edited by drew on Thu 06 Aug , 2009 8:49 pm, edited 4 times in total.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests