2" Body Lift Parts / Tools

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Tools Needed

• An air compressor and impact wrench.
• A drill press makes this job easier – particularly if you raise the bumper.
• You may need a grinder or cutoff tool to remove rusted bolts or to cut the firewall where the steering shaft exits the body.
• A ¾” ratchet or breaker bar for frozen bolts – or a torch
• 2 - Floor Jacks
• Jack Stands
• Misc 2x4's
• 5/8" drill bit

Parts List:

• 6 - Body mounting bolts are probably going to be 5/8 x 7” grade 8. This depends on year of truck and height of lift. About $2.49 each. My bumper rework required 2 – 6” bolts
• Metal strap (1/8” x 1.5 “ wide) from home depot.
• 2” Angle iron if you do the rear bumper.
• 6 Full Size Truck Blocks (2" or 3”) $3.15 ea. from (you're going to have to look for these. the old link is dead). I suggest getting some 2" or 3" diameter steel bar stock, cutting it 2" long and drilling a 5/8" hole through the center. I would also take a look and see if there are factory blocks used to lift the 2006 Alpha 2".
  The holes on these blocks are ½” diameter These blocks will need to be drilled out to 5/8”.

I ordered 5 Goodyear MT/R 40" tires (spare) from TireRack for $345 each $1889 with shipping delivered from Indiana to Columbus Ohio. They run a lot smoother than my 37" or 38" Super Swamper SSR's, but aren't as sure-footed in heavy rain. The SSR's are very sticky on pavement and on rocks, but wear out after about 10,000-15,000 miles.

I expect that the larger diameter 40's will wear out front end parts ie. ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm and idler arm a bit quicker.

Since the 40's use a 17" wheels I like the Cepek / GT Aluminum 17's. For heavy duty off roading you can use steel wheel covers on your aluminum rims.

There are a couple of issues with the 40" MT/R's. They are C rated load range (as opposed to E ratings for the 37's) so they carry a bit less weight. I don't think that this will be a big deal with my light open-top since people in heavier loaded wagons use them successfully. They have a tall sidewall, so they might absorb more bruising before affecting the rims. Finding a shop to mount them and balance them was a problem. Most shops can't take that large of a tire.

My D-Ring brushguard, which used to attach to the top of the airlift rings, now attaches to some channel steel painted black and bolted in place with 2 stainless steel bolts at base of existing ring and one through the top of the ring. This setup is actually better/stronger than the original welded tubes that came with the brushguard.